Wednesday, June 27, 2007

In Valdez and the start of a new segment


Living on the Edge - of Childs Glacier, Copper River is running below it.
Hi Everyone, we are in Valdez for the afternoon - showers, laundry, some phone calls and of course a blog update. We have had some incredible weather - must be the good weather wishes from all of you. Today it is about 70 and completely clear skies - we are loving this weather. While we were in Cordova we had an overcast dry day on Monday when we drove out to the Million Dollar Bridge on the Copper River Highway and then spent some time near AND ON Childs Glacier. Yesterday was clear blue sky and warm which was perfect for our work in Alaganik Slough and along Hartney Bay. The day was topped off with a climb/hike to a view point over Sherridan and Sherman Glaciers. The ferry trip this morning was full of wildlife sightings which made up for the early morning (6am) start. There were quite a few sea otters putting on a show, killer whales, seas, some other whales (maybe minks) and possibly some dolphins. The students wrote their updates on the ferry ride from Cordova to Valdez this morning. This afternoon we go to Old Valdez to look at the remnants of the town after the 1964 earthquake and tsunami and start our trek north. Stopping at Keystone Canyon and Worthington Glaciers for some short hiking before we stop for the night at Squirrel Creek Campground. Tomorrow we head down to Chitina and the confluence Chitina and Copper River between the Chugach Range to the south and the Wrangells/St. Elias to the north. Get ready for some spectacular photos in a week or so when we get into Fairbanks around the 4th of July.

Your comments have been great, and I have been passing them on to the students! They are just as excited about the blog as you are! - jc

Karen-

Since our last update we’ve been in Cordova, which is probably one of the most beautiful places we have seen so far, everywhere you look there are flowers and lakes with the Chugach Mountains and bald eagles in the background. We went to Childs glacier and Sheridan glacier which were both amazing, the hike up Sheridan mountain was a lot of fun. It was also exciting to watch Childs glacier calving into the Copper River and listening to the thunderous crash it made as it hit the water. I loved getting stuck in mud during our walk down the river and being able to figure out the amount of uplift from the 1964 earthquake on the beach by looking at how far up the barnacles were on the rocks.


Amanda –

We have become so accustomed to beautiful mountains and swooping bald eagles that time in the van has become time to catch up on sleep. Our standards of cleanliness drop a little lower each day. Clean dishes and stainless clothing seem overrated at this point. Each day gets finer than the last. Prof. Garver says it best, “It doesn’t get any better than this”.


Rose-

As I cast for the fiftieth time out across the river clouded by glacial till, I hope that this time I will feel a bite. Ah yes, something, my line goes taught. Alas, another spinner taken by river rocks. Restringing my fishing line I figure something has got to give. The fish win again. The mosquitoes are becoming immune to Deet, my arm is sore from casting and we have to catch the ferry at 7am tomorrow. The battle may be won for tonight, but the war has just begun between me and the Alaskan King salmon run.


Brittany-

The coastlines are amazing! Best so far? Fort Abercrombie on Kodiak and the Prince Williams Sound. I think I just like water… actually, just the ocean, since at the last lake, (Lake McKinley on the Copper River) I met a leech the size of a large hamster. We aren’t on good terms.

The mountains are beautiful too. They offer those quintessential-Alaska photo opportunities Brandon is so good at catching. They’re still covered in huge amounts of snow… pretty impressive for June. I keep imagining them covered with all the 100ft of snow or so they get ever year. Ahhh! Definitely coming back here to ski! This area gets 5-7 METERS of water-equivalent precipitation per year.

High expectations for the following days: I’m still not satisfied with why the glaciers are blue, I am dying to eat more fish (I completely support Rose’s and Garver’s fishing addiction) and I am waiting to meet a bear.

P.S. I am moving to Kodiak. Think it’ll be a summer gig though since even the locals despise the winters. Please forward my mail. Thanks!


Sam-

So far, the McKinley Trail Cabin has been my favourite place so far. The forest where the cabin was (Chugach National Forest) was outstanding. It reminded me of the Fern Gully. Driving through the Chugach Mountains was incredible, the best scenery so far. Turning corners and seeing the snow covered jagged peaks was unreal. Hiking on Child’s Glacier and watching it calve was also a highlight.

Kelly –

So we’re on the ferry again and its time for some more highlights. Basta and I were the only brave ones and took a swim in McKinley Lake, near where we stayed, and while it was very cold, it was also very refreshing after not taking a shower for a couple days. My next highlight would have to be walking on Child’s Glacier with another glacier (Miles Glacier) in the background. It made for quite the view.


Sarah –

My highlights in Cordova have been some of the best on the trip so far. I liked hiking on Child’s Glacier and watching it calve at the same time. Having a roof and walls was quite the treat at McKinley Trail Cabin the last three days, as well as the cozy sleeping quarters. The hikes up to the Lucky Strike Gold Mine were a nice evening activity, but the interesting game of Pictionary last night might have taken the cake.

Jon –

Eating breakfast from a shopping cart in a parking lot! Discovering an abandoned gold mine! Hopping on a WWII bunker! Feeding the Cockburn! Falling hot dogs! Speeding toward a grizzly in a giant van! Government conspiracies about missile launchers! Spongebob birthday cake! Hikes that have no end point! Alaska! Yeah!


Brandon

The landscape during this adventure has grown increasingly exotic and beautiful. Cordova is an unexpected surprise; moss covered forests, an actively calving glacier, and numerous wetlands of the Copper River. The cabin we have for shelter (thank you National Forest Service for building it and Professor Cockburn for reserving it) isn’t shabby either! I don’t see how this trip could possibly get better, but I eagerly await the expeditions that await us, and I realize how fortunate I am to get to share this experience with such a good natured, interesting, and knowledgeable group of students and professors.

Sunday, June 24, 2007

Student reflections thus far and more pictures!

June 24, 2007
We have just arrived in Cordova and after being disappointed by the lack of wireless on this past ferry (the sea otters and sea lions made up for it) the group has headed out to set up camp at the McKinley Trail cabin (some people will sleep inside tonight...somehow I don't think I am one of them) and I am sitting outside the public library to load our latest updates 'sharing' the library's wireless signal. We have had a bit of clouds and showers since getting back to the mainland from Kodiak, but the forecast is for better weather while we are at Cordova - we are putting all the rain gear to good use!!
Each student has composed a short entry as part of this blog, we hope to have more student entries as we continue on our trip. Feel free to post comments or questions. Below is a group shot on our way to the Harding Icefield Overlook, in the background is Exit Glacier.Student Profiles


Brandon - I am a rising junior from Chappaqua, NY and this is my first time in Alaska. As a Geology and Environmental Science major I hope to gain a first hand understanding of deformation caused by subducting plates and glaciation as well as insight into erosional and depositional processes that can record catastrophic events such as volcanic eruptions and tsunamis. Plus Alaska has some great surf.

Highlights from last two days

Accretionary complex exposure along the cliffs at Fort Abercrombie, Kodiak

Hiking along Exit Glacier in Kenai Fjords National Park and viewing wildlife along the hike

Behind Brandon is Exit Glacier a valley glacier part of the Kenai Fiords National Park



Jon – I am a rising junior with a double-major in Geology and Environmental Science. I am from Niskayuna New York and have lived in New York all my life.

Alaska; where else are Bald Eagle’s more common than squirrels, do fake birthday’s last forever and ferry’s have tighter security than an airport? My first time on a plane and camping have been grand, as well as viewing my first glacier, standing ten feet away from a young bear and digging giant holes in remote fields.


This is Jon en route to the lookout over Harding Icefield









Brittany - I’m a senior from Southern California majoring in mechanical engineering, hoping to take in a geology minor.

On Timing
Retrospectively, I didn't even consider the effect of eternal sunshine (or as in the saturated city of
Seward, the prolonged drizzly skies). Now I see. Initially it was disturbing to find a typical “5-o’clock sun” telling such outrageous lies, but we have adapted. We quickly learned watching the sun is only confusing and the hands of the clocks are meaningless because there are so many more sunny hours to occupy. My life here is no longer run one day at a time, from sunup to sundown. An “Alaskan summer” is the smallest natural distinguishable division of time (days run together), so I measure life by feelings: duration until next shower, or escape from the rain, or to the next salmon.

Geology

Though complicated in some areas, it all makes sense. It is great to see the big picture! I did wish I knew more of the plants, now that's taken care of- I bought a guide this morning. Highlights:
the coastline, the lovely turbidites. Love you Mom, Dad, Jeff and Hayley!!

Behind Brittany is the tongue of Exit Glacier in Kenai Fiords National Park


Sam –

Next year will be my last hoorah at Union and Alaska is the beginning of that for me. I have been planning on coming to AK since I was in kindergarten. I study environmental science and what better place to learn about it first hand than the U.S.’s final frontier. I am quite interested in gaining some field experience and doing some serious camping (the first of my life). I was talked into *wink* staying behind after the trip to do a little thesis research with Prof. Cockburn, so my journey is just beginning.

Highlights from the trip:
Gary’s fresh Red Salmon and his, shall we say, strangely delivered stories
Being on my first glacier
Buying a hat off an Alaskan’s head

Sam is on a glacially scoured bedrock exposure in front of Exit Glacier


Sarah-

I’m a sophomore from Providence, RI. My major is still undeclared, but I am strongly considering geology (editorial comment we aren't letting her go home until she declares geo as her major - haha). This is my second trip to Alaska, and it is interesting to view the landscape from a geologic standpoint this time. I enjoyed the fieldwork on Kodiak Island because it was a hands-on experience, rather than purely observational. Though struggling to understand all the concepts we have been introduced to so far, I have found clarity and interest in learning about the 1964 earthquake and the tsunamis that followed. The most excitement was on our hike in Seward, with our increasingly better views of Exit Glacier to one side, while spotting black bears on the other. The brief bear encounter on the trail offered realization to the wildlife around us.

Saturday just before the 4 hour hike along side Exit Glacier


Karen –

I am a junior from Albany, NY and an English major. So far, my first experience in Alaska has been fabulous and absolutely beautiful. I am enjoying learning about a completely new topic in a hands on way. Not only have I found a new interest in geology but I am excited to see how this subject, geological hazards, is reflected in everyday life and society in Alaska. I am also thrilled about the wildlife I have seen so far!

Highlights from last two days:

Hiking up Exit Glacier and looking out over the landscape and glacier.

Karen is sitting on top of the accretionary complex on Kodiak Island overlooking Mill Bay at Ft Abercrombie.



Kelly -

I am a senior from Oswego, NY and I am a double major in Environmental Policy and Spanish. Alaska has always been a place I’ve wanted to visit and I’m really excited that I’m finally here. This is my first time camping ever (and what better place to do it in than Alaska!), but my trouble falling asleep hasn’t been because of the hard ground or a wet tent, but because it’s still light out here at midnight! For me, we have been learning some pretty complicated stuff about geology, but the geo majors have been helping the rest of us out so maybe by the end of the trip I will be able to understand completely what an accretionary complex is. So far though, my highlights of the trip have been listening to Gary Carver, our guide through Kodiak, talk about the politics of the Kodiak Launching Facility, walking on and off the trails at Fort Abercrombie, and seeing the glacier and black bear yesterday at Kenai Fjords National Park.

Kelly is standing in front of the ablation zone of Exit Glacier, just after a brief introduction and discussion of glacial dynamics and potential hazards

Rose –
Hello Family:

Thus far my Alaskan experience can be placed among the ranks of my greatest life’s experiences. It has been gratifying to have the opportunity to apply all that I have learned in the classroom to understanding the unique geology of Alaska. Furthermore, I am in fantastic company. Most of all I have to mention the great awe I am struck by being amidst natures majestic wonders. I have already seen puffins, seals, otters humpback whales, moose, mountain sheep, black bears, bald eagles, magpie, endless snow-peaked mountains, bubbling streams, fields of flowers (wild orchids and roses), glaciers, and lots of fish. Unfortunately I have only seen the fish, and have yet to catch one. Despite the fact that I can not yet be considered a critically acclaimed fisherman I sure as hell have had a lot of fun trying.

Thanks for making my travels possible… and I promise you’ll be getting a fish in the mail soon!

Rose is looking for whales in the bay off of Fort Abercrombie, Kodiak Island on Friday


Amanda -
Pretty fantastic trip thus far. The rain and drear make me feel more at home than I feel at school in New York. Being from the Northwest myself, Living on the Edge is applicable to the place I will eventually settle. The course material I am learning can easily be applied to my home area of Olympia, Olympic Peninsula and Cascade Range. For me the highlight of this trip will come when I return home and am able to recognize geologic features all on my home. (Dad, our hiking excursions are going to be brought to a whole new level. Mom, sorry for the boring dinner chats that will come.)
Paid an exorbitant amount of money in order to go fishing and have yet to see any returns. However, Garver, Rose and myself are optimistic as we ferry towards Cordova and the
Copper River. Soon getting up at 5am will pay off, and not just in getting the first cup of coffee. The food is filling, company is great and the overall attitude is positive. Endless learning and exploring in the last frontier.

Amanda is on the beach below the town of Old Kenai on our way to Homer, looking towards the Cook Inlet, where we discussed Sangamon terraces visible up and down the coast


More Photos Kodiak and Exit Glacier (not in order ... sorry)

Overlooking Mill Point at Ft Abercrombie, Kodiak
Exit Glacier



Rose with Sam (really little) almost in the palm of her hand


Karen appreciates the local culinary delights!

The group after the Exit Glacier hike and a tour through the town of Seward

Almost finished the Harding Icefield Overlook Trail


Sarah and Kelly at Exit Glacier

Exit Glacier overlook

Early morning fisher-women, Amanda and RoseFirst up-close glacier sighting - Sarah, Kelly, Brittany

Friday, June 22, 2007

Kodiak and back


We are now on the ferry heading back to Homer. We boarded around 5pm and should be into Homer by 7am tomorrow morning. We had an excellent introduction to the accretionary complex in Alaska. Local geologist Gary Carver, was our host for the last two days. He met us on Wednesday morning and took us to Middle Bay where we helped him with a research project investigating the extent of tsunami waves during the 1964 earthquake by excavating and mapping sedimentary deposits. Afterwards he provided a fabulous salmon dinner for the group. The next day we traveled to Narrow Cape and the Kodiak Launch Complex where we investigated a number of active faults. This morning we woke up to the first clouds and cool weather of the trip. We broke camp and headed to Fort Abercrombie, a military installment built during WWII to protect Kodiak City and essentially mainland Alaska in case of attack from Japanese forces. The Japanese never attacked Kodiak and now Fort Abercrombie is a historic site and fantastic view point for spotting marine wildlife. The average Alaskan visitor might be satisfied with a few whales and some puffins - but for a bunch of Geologist we needed more. We made our way from the peaks to the tidal pools below where there were fantastic examples of folds (synclines) that are typical of the accretionary complex.




A few photos from Kodiak
(if you click on a photo , you can see the larger image)

Arriving into Kodiak, Wednesday morning

Tsunami Project View - Middle Bay - the group to the bottom left is completing our transect observations and measurements

A look over the salt marshes where tsunami deposits were studied

Studying the vegetation gradient through the tidal marshes in Middle Bay

Getting dinner ready!

Gary explains active faults on Narrow Cape adjacent to the Kodiak Launch Complex


Sketching the Holocene tephra stratigraphy at west of Narrow Cape

After a day of active fault measurements we took a break for some fishing in Pasagshak Creek



Fishing in the creek near our camp - Bushkin Creek, 11pm

Studying deformation in the Kodiak Formation (part of the accretionary complex) in Mill Bay


Standing on a bunker at Fort Abercrombie

Wednesday, June 20, 2007

Day 1 -Anchorage to Homer June 19, 2007

Crystal clear, perfect weather - must be all your positive thoughts!

We are sitting on the Tustemena in the Homer harbour, on the southern tip of the Kenai Peninsula. We had an amazing day - the weather couldn't be better. Check out our list of daily highlights to the right, and look at this link for photos from the day. But here are just a few before you go to the album - which is still a work in progress - mostly just need to find a faster connection.




June 18, 10:00pm, Ship Creek, downtown Anchorage. People were shoulder to shoulder in the river fishing for the King Salmon that just started to run last week. This was one about 50lbs, 3ft long - fairly standard according to the locals!







Once we got ourselves checked out of the Spenard Motel, we headed to Earthquake Park, on the western edge of Anchorage, along the Knik Arm. This is a large landslide that moved during the 1964 earthquake. In addition to observing slump rotation blocks we also had our first major wildlife sighting - the state bird - the very healthy and large mosquito!! Sam won the first points of the day by having his bug spray on hand.



So there is a bit of a problem with the connection and loading photos. Everyone is having a great time (most are still sleeping) but we are ready for a great day on Kodiak. A colleague, Gary Carver is hosting us for the next two days and this includes a huge salmon bake!

Sunday, June 17, 2007

This week's weather

I imagine everybody is getting ready for tomorrow's flight. Here is a quick run down of the weather for the next week.
Anchorage - Cloudy, thunderstorms, highs 60-70s, lows 50s
Kodiak - 50-60s highs, 40-50s lows, scattered showers
Kenai Peninsula - Seward - highs near 60, lows 40-50s, chance of showers

Be sure to keep you rain coat handy and some warm pajamas.

See you in Anchorage tomorrow!!

Thursday, June 14, 2007

One Week Today!


Well I am excited and I can't help but be pumped that in a week we will have spent 3 days on Kodiak Island and be heading back to Homer via 'night movement' on Tustumena, part of the Alaska Marine Highway system.


What will we see on Kodiak Island? Well here are a couple of photos of some of the things we will be exploring. Try a Google image search on your own to see what you turn up. And once we get here ourselves, we will of course post our very own pics of the trip in action. A couple reminders, be sure to confirm your flight departure and arrival times, be sure to bring the handout that had phone numbers and arrival times on it and check out the schedule below for more day-to-day details.
See you in Anchorage!
jc

Kodiak Launch Complex


A view of one of the many bays on Kodiak Island

Do not be alarmed - this guy was in south south -south-western Kodiak Island. We won't see any of this up close...the salmon won't be running.