Living on the Edge - Alaska 2007

Postings from the 2007 Living on the Edge Field Course in Alaska

2007-10-01T18:49:00.001-05:00

Welcome to the 2007 LOTE Alaska Blog site. Below you will find the entries/stories (in reverse order) from the 2007 field course in Alaska. We met on June 18 (early June 19) in Anchorage Alaska and proceeded to the southern tip of the Kenai Peninsula where we boarded the Tustemena and promptly went to sleep (we got on the ferry at midnight!). We arrived rested and excited for the 3 days of work on Kodiak Island - what a beginning!

Have a look at the stories and photos from our trip. Some of the parents followed along and posted comments as well as we went.

If you have any questions about LOTE: ALASKA 2008 please contact John Garver or Jaclyn Cockburn at the Union College Geology Department or via email:
gaverj at union.com or cockburj at union.com

There and back again!

2007-07-09T03:09:00.001-05:00

Well it seems like years ago we gathered in Anchorage on a sunny day/evening/night ... it was hard to tell and despite some initial challenges like delayed or canceled flights and one piece of missing luggage we were out of Anchorage onto the first part of this amazing trip! And three weeks later, we are back!
I can't believe it has been three weeks - it has flown by and yet those first few days seem so long ago. The geology, cultural and social experiences have been something else. Many of us have learned about our own personal thresholds, for example I don't need to wash oatmeal, spaghetti sauce or sandwich crumbs out of my eating dish - but I can't handle scrambled eggs mixing with peanut butter. And others have learned that science goes on, even in the rain, fog, wind, beating sun or with challenged music selection. I think each of us has grown from this trip and will leave Alaska knowing a little more about ourselves. On top of that I can say that each of us is a better Geologist and field scientist for this experience. It is impossible to replace this hands-on, seeing is believing type learning, it is a fundamentally unique opportunity and each of us is hugely privileged to have been a part of it. I look back on all that we accomplished over the last three weeks and smile with awe and pride. We conquered subduction zones, mosquito strongholds, disappearing strata, bears, volcanic arcs and their remnants, moose, leaking tents, strike-slip faults, antecedent streams, incision that keeps up with mountain uplift, everyone's favourite - the accretionary complex, upcoming thesis topic discussions and a couple of memorable birthdays (I think the count was 1 for Brandon and maybe 10 or so for Jon). We even handled some deflating moments - like the missing luggage, dented vans, tires embedded with nails, and the unfair Fairbanks. This group and this course is one of my most memorable experiences as a scientist, and each individual on this trip has contributed to this outstanding experience for me. In a very nerdy way (paraphrasing from a student's comment), I am passionate about Geology and learning, and truly hope that some of that has been passed on to the others. I wish each person success in their future endeavours (the trip home, sorting out courses, majors, thesis topics and beyond) and hope that you look back on Living on the Edge 2007 as a memorable (maybe even top 5) experience.
jc

A couple of photos from the last day in Denali - July 7, 2007

They don't call this class Living on the Edge for nothing! We endured the 7 hour round trip shuttle bus trek to increase our chance of seeing Mt McKinley - it is in the background of this photo... The shuttle buses are used by hikers and wildlife watchers to get further into the park, we took the second longest bus run to Fish Creek, Mile Post 64. When we got there, there was a grizzly bear just settling into a nap about 1200 yards from the bus stop! We gave him a wide berth to hike to the top of this peak - literally into the clouds! On the bus ride back to our campground, another man took a photo of Brandon's digital camera screen that was showing a great shot of our napping griz. We saw 3 griz this day, the sleeping bear, and then two others that were foraging on the sides of hills. We saw a few caribou and sheep from a distance and some feisty ground squirrels and everyone's favourite tundra animal - the snowshoe hare - I think the snowshoes slow them down in summer - at least slower than our bus.

"There are strange things done in the midnight sun"
On our last night of camping in Denali we were visited by Amanda's parents and their friends who were on vacation in Alaska and just happened to by about 3 miles down the road from our campsite. We treated Laura, Steven, Joanne and Ken to smores and stories. They had been following our journey on the blog and were happy to get to meet up with us, as were we. The students had just finished writing the final exam for the course when the parent inspection began. Thankfully they didn't get beyond the campfire, I am sure everyone made their beds, but I am not sure that all the socks had been put away. Amanda's Dad is holding up the Living on the Edge Alaska guidebook which has a shiny cover and is reflecting kind of funny in the picture - which was taken just after midnight.

As the end nears

2007-07-07T01:04:00.000-05:00

We’re in the Central Alaska Range and the mountains are brilliant as the low evening sunlight illuminates the snowy peaks. We had a wonderful day in the Savage River topped off by seeing a number of caribou on the river gravels. This trip has been amazing and I think it is safe to say it has been an incredibly rewarding and profound experience for all. We’ve seen faults, tsunami sand layers, landslides and mudflows, flood deposits, alluvial fans, galloping glaciers, volcanic ash, burst lakes, calving glaciers, down-dropped swamps, uplifted beaches, fault-split trees, and forty year old barnacles stuck to rocks in the woods. The Earth reveals secrets of dramatic events in subtle ways and leaves fascinating clues of dramatic events and I think that all have a new appreciation of how to think about natural hazards. While the science has been wonderful, working with this team has been incredibly rewarding. Our gathering in Anchorage three weeks ago seems like it was ages ago, but since that time we transformed from eleven individuals, to one team. The group bond is the strongest I’ve seen on a trip like this. This bond comes from shared experiences that are difficult to relate; some scary, some breathtaking, some routine. We’ve pitched tents, cooked dinners, chased moose out of camp, hiked the arctic tundra, crossed rivers, berthed in an ocean-going ferry, fixed flat tires, fished for salmon, told stories, negotiated bears in the trail, caught grayling, met Alaskans, sweated, shivered, started camp fires, discussed politics, roasted marshmallows, gotten wet and dried out. It is hard to put to words how all this interconnected activity builds a common bond and a life changing experience, but it has. It will be sad to break camp Sunday morning. Sad because it will be our last camp in the Alaskan bush and so it will mark the end of our adventure. Before we know it we’ll be back at Union, and campus life will seem just a little foreign. A little different than when we left. And that’s good, because we all have a new perspective that has helped focus on what’s important.

First Day in Denali

2007-07-07T00:08:00.000-05:00

So we made it to Denali yesterday afternoon and have just finished an amazing day. As some of the comments have hinted Fairbanks wasn't as fair as its name might imply, but getting to the awesome setting of Denali National Park has improved all our spirits. As some of you will know July 5th was Brandon's birthday and in true LOTE tradition we celebrated with a birthday cake at breakfast in a parking lot - this time it was the Museum of the North's parking lot though. Below are more photos from today. Tomorrow is a long trek into the center of Denali National Park and then the final exam for the course.

Happy Birthday Brandon!

A stop on Savage River Trail

Kelly at an overlook along the Savage Creek Trail this afternoon

Karen at another overlook along the Savage Creek Trail - yes those are some serious clouds in the background

Sarah this afternoon on the hike

Rose and Amanda along the Savage Creek Trail

The group on the Savage Creek Trail

A personal fave-jc

This morning we were treated to a lecture and mini field trip led by Park Geologist Phil Brease

Sam not wearing sunglasses

Jon above the Nenana River this morning on one of Phil Brease's field stops

Taking notes at a windy point over the Nenana River this morning

Valdez to Fairbanks the Full Story

2007-07-04T23:25:00.001-05:00

Happy 4th of July! We are in Fairbanks for the day before we turn south and make our way back to Anchorage with a 4-day, 3-night stop-over in Denali National Park, the Serengeti of the north! We have had a fabulous trip from Valdez to Fairbanks and the there are many highlights. Here is a quick overview of our schedule from the last 7 days, followed by the story in the students' words and of course some fabulous shots!

From Valdez we went north through Keystone Canyon and Thompson Pass stopping at Bridal Veil Falls and Worthington Glacier. It was a beautiful evening drive. We made it to Squirrel Creek just before the rain. The next day we broke camp and continued north stopping along the way to look at some exposures of Glacial Lake Ahtna sediments, the Copper River, awesome vistas of the Wrangell/St. Elias Volcanoes and stopping for the next two nights at Grizzly Lake Campground. From here we staged our day-long hike up the Skookum Volcano Trail at the end of the Nabesna Road, that night at camp we had hilarious game of charades - don't worry I think Hollywood is safe. The next day made our way to Tangle Lakes via a circuitous route that included a discussion with a Mentasta Lake resident who experienced the 2002 Denali Fault Earthquake first-hand. This was a great precursor to this second segment of our trip - The Denali Fault System. After some rain at Tangle Lakes we spent the day hiking around the Landmark Gap Lake Trail looking at post-glacial landscapes and some permafrost landscape features. From Tangle Lakes we moved north again over the Denali Fault to Donnelly Creek Campground. We spent time looking at the impact of the 2002 fault rupture on the pipeline and looking at evidence of earlier ruptures. Yesterday we spent the day on Castner Glacier exploring stagnant glacial ice terrain and discussing the potential hazards associated with surging glaciers. Today we got an early start - maybe due to a little help from a moose visiting at 4am! and spent the day in Fairbanks. Here are some stories from the students. Thanks again for all your comments! We are glad you like the blog. If you are unsure about posting comments there are some instructions posted just before this update.

Student Updates

Brittany-
Hi Mom, Dad, Jeff and Hayley!
We’re suddenly having hot weather are blue skies with are great! Yesterday we hiked Castner Glacier. Ice pieces had been left behind by the glacier as it retreated which made a very muddy and hilly hike- really fun. We also ran across a few ice caves. Heading off to Denali Park tomorrow. Happy fourth of July!

Rosalba -
Since the last update the fishing situation has changed little. And by little, I mean that I have caught my first fish, of ~8inches in length (grayling)… I’m very pleased. Aside from this triumph I have to mention another of even greater importance, the Trans-Alaskan Pipeline. After seeing such a structure in person I can truly say that it is a triumph of American engineering. It weaved underground, snaked above ground, and seemingly floated above waterways (all 1 million barrels/day) in other areas. Knowing what grief our country’s dependency on oil has caused the average American citizen and what a monstrous disruption of nature the pipeline is, I hesitated to appreciate it, but it was overwhelmingly impressive. I suppose I will hold reservations on forming an opinion about it just yet. On a more natural note I continue to be awed by Alaska’s beauty. Our last two day hikes up to Castner Glacier and around the rolling, tundra-vegetated hills surrounding Landmark Gap Lake have given me an opportunity to apply all that I have learned in the last 3 years to understanding the beautiful land. It has been a rewarding experience to look at an outcrop and figure out what it means before the teachers even explain it. With that said… It is also exciting to know how much more I have to learn.

Amanda –
Hey mom and dad! Sounds like the cruise is a blast. Mom, you’re right no one makes my bed in the morning. However, all I have to do is stuff my sleeping bag into a sac. We are now back in civilization for a night if you get a chance to call. Civilization also means showers, fresh vegetables and clean laundry! Our trip feels like its just getting going and we are really almost at the end. Reviewing today in the big white van, the realization hit of how much we have learned in these past few weeks. This outdoor classroom thing is amazing. Hello to the rest of my family. Thanks for writing blog notes, it is certainly one of the highlights of our week up here knowing that everyone at home is following along with our adventures. Love you all.

Jon
Clean! Showers and laundry after days camping out! We’ve watched Waterworld (great movie), searched for the elusive mud volcano and met Elton, an extra-friendly camp host who shared shelter in our van with us when the rain came. Hiking on the volcano was a blast and viewing the ice caves was pretty cool. We have also been seeing the pipeline on our trip the last few days, which did not match the impression I had in my head. I thought it would have a massive diameter and would be elevated high enough where people would not be able to touch it, but I was wrong on both accounts. The weather here in Fairbanks is very warm and sunny (contrary to what I hear from peeps in New York), but there won’t be any fireworks! The day should still be fun – We’ve already experienced the North Pole and had our first ‘real’ lunch for a while and are soon to explore the city!

Sam-

Lots of time since the last update, so hopefully I won’t forget anything major. One highlight has been getting stuck in “quickmud” near Child’s Glacier and Jackie getting stuck another time (and Jon video taping it). Yesterday we went on a great hike up Castner Glacier and we got to look at some pretty sweet stagnant ice deposits under sunny skies. We even got to demonstrate mass wasting by heaving rocks down the ice face. Some non-geo highlights include the card game politely known as “President”. The weather has been fabulous (little rain, but I would probably say the same with lots of rain) and sleeping while it is light out keeps getting easier. Its amazing to me that the pipeline can cross over the Denali fault and not spill a drop when it is displaced 18 feet, like it was in 2002. The foresight of the scientists and the willingness of the planners made this hazard much more manageable.

Sarah-

I am updating from the outside of a laundromat in the lovely city of Fairbanks, after taking about 10 minutes to figure out how to use the machines. I am enjoying being spoiled by the 90-degree weather after a few nights of rain at Tangle Lakes. Highlights from the last few days have been hanging out with Eldon, pesto and sausage dinner, and yesterday’s hike followed by the 12:30 sunset down by the river.

Kelly – We arrived in Fairbanks today which means time to shower and find the nearest laundromat. My clothes were definitely ready for a wash after the fabric softener debacle (as we now like to call it) in Valdez. As for highlights, the hike to the ice caves yesterday was one of the best sights I’ve seen yet on the trip. Who knew that throwing rocks into a melting glacier could be so entertaining? Surprisingly, seeing the Alaska Pipeline has been another highlight for me. While I thought I might just see it as an eye sore on the otherwise beautiful landscape, seeing the way the pipeline was engineered in order to be prepared for hazards like the earthquake in 2002 was pretty amazing. Based on the work of geologists, engineers have placed the pipeline on Teflon slides in areas where it crosses fault lines, like the Denali fault, to allow for the pipeline to move in case of an earthquake. It’s cool to see that after the 2002 earthquake all these precautions really did pay off.

Karen – Today we are in Fairbanks which is a cute little city. Since our last update we have traveled a lot and seen some great things. Some of my highlights were hiking along Skookum trail, seeing the salmon wheels, the waterfall and so many rainbows. Yesterday we saw some amazing ice caves. I have really liked the past couple of campgrounds we stayed at and playing games like pictionary and cards with the group. I am psyched that it is warm and sunny today! Even though we have had some rain, I always enjoy a good thunderstorm and the chance to wear my raingear. I am also looking forward to Denali!

Brandon – Fairbanks, like Valdez has been an unexpected and much welcomed chance to shower, launder, and “recharge the batteries”. The departure from Valdez into the volcanic arc ushered in some new and different types of terrain and geological opportunities like sorting through sediments deposited by lahars and hiking into the Skookum Volcano. I have especially enjoyed the extra-curricular aspects of our journey such as group charades, pictionary, and countless intellectual discussions. Even through the few days of rain we have experienced thus far, spectacular rainbows (and even double rainbows, which I never knew existed) have acted as the silver lining to our picture perfect cloud.

How to post a comment

2007-07-04T23:19:00.001-05:00

Hi All - Here is a quick lesson on how to post a comment, we know you want to post them - we love to read them!

At the end of each update or blog there is a line of small text that looks like this
"Posted by _________________________________ at 12:05 AM 6 comments"
All you need to do to post a comment or read other comments is click on the word comments. It will open a new page and there you will see an option on the top right to write in your comments and you can read the other comments on the left.

The comments have been awesome, keep them coming!
jc

Update from Tangle Lakes - Denali Highway

2007-07-01T00:05:00.000-05:00

June 30, 2007
We made it to the Denali Highway and we are about 20 miles down the road at Tangle Lakes Campground, well that's where some of stuff is - really we are holed up at Tangle Lakes Inn trying to stay dry and they have free wireless. We have had some amazing weather and today our weather luck seems to be a little short. After Valdez, our first night was spent on Squirrel Creek and the last two nights have been at Grizzly Lake on the Tok Cutoff just southwest of the Nabesna Rd. When we get a chance we will update with some photos, don't worry everyone is well and happy, we just haven't had a chance to download all our photos from our last few days. WE LOVE the comments!

Here is a group shot from the Skookum Volcano Trail on Friday

Some locals on the Copper River let us check out their fish wheel, Rose got a closer look

Before driving further north along the Richardson Highway, we spent some time at an exposure of Glacial Lake Ahtna sediments, Kelly is taking some measurements

We stopped at Copper Center on our way to Grizzly Lake, this is the oldest non-native town in Alaska, they have great icec cream and coffee!

We had a bit of rain in the evening on Thursday, but with rain came some fantastic rainbows, we counted at least 8

This is one of the views of the Wrangells above the Copper River, Mt Drum is hiding in the clouds on the right

In Valdez and the start of a new segment

2007-06-27T16:22:00.000-05:00

Living on the Edge - of Childs Glacier, Copper River is running below it.

Hi Everyone, we are in Valdez for the afternoon - showers, laundry, some phone calls and of course a blog update. We have had some incredible weather - must be the good weather wishes from all of you. Today it is about 70 and completely clear skies - we are loving this weather. While we were in Cordova we had an overcast dry day on Monday when we drove out to the Million Dollar Bridge on the Copper River Highway and then spent some time near AND ON Childs Glacier. Yesterday was clear blue sky and warm which was perfect for our work in Alaganik Slough and along Hartney Bay. The day was topped off with a climb/hike to a view point over Sherridan and Sherman Glaciers. The ferry trip this morning was full of wildlife sightings which made up for the early morning (6am) start. There were quite a few sea otters putting on a show, killer whales, seas, some other whales (maybe minks) and possibly some dolphins. The students wrote their updates on the ferry ride from Cordova to Valdez this morning. This afternoon we go to Old Valdez to look at the remnants of the town after the 1964 earthquake and tsunami and start our trek north. Stopping at Keystone Canyon and Worthington Glaciers for some short hiking before we stop for the night at Squirrel Creek Campground. Tomorrow we head down to Chitina and the confluence Chitina and Copper River between the Chugach Range to the south and the Wrangells/St. Elias to the north. Get ready for some spectacular photos in a week or so when we get into Fairbanks around the 4th of July.

Your comments have been great, and I have been passing them on to the students! They are just as excited about the blog as you are! - jc

Karen-

Since our last update we’ve been in Cordova, which is probably one of the most beautiful places we have seen so far, everywhere you look there are flowers and lakes with the Chugach Mountains and bald eagles in the background. We went to Childs glacier and Sheridan glacier which were both amazing, the hike up Sheridan mountain was a lot of fun. It was also exciting to watch Childs glacier calving into the Copper River and listening to the thunderous crash it made as it hit the water. I loved getting stuck in mud during our walk down the river and being able to figure out the amount of uplift from the 1964 earthquake on the beach by looking at how far up the barnacles were on the rocks.

Amanda –

We have become so accustomed to beautiful mountains and swooping bald eagles that time in the van has become time to catch up on sleep. Our standards of cleanliness drop a little lower each day. Clean dishes and stainless clothing seem overrated at this point. Each day gets finer than the last. Prof. Garver says it best, “It doesn’t get any better than this”.

Rose-

As I cast for the fiftieth time out across the river clouded by glacial till, I hope that this time I will feel a bite. Ah yes, something, my line goes taught. Alas, another spinner taken by river rocks. Restringing my fishing line I figure something has got to give. The fish win again. The mosquitoes are becoming immune to Deet, my arm is sore from casting and we have to catch the ferry at 7am tomorrow. The battle may be won for tonight, but the war has just begun between me and the Alaskan King salmon run.

Brittany-

The coastlines are amazing! Best so far? Fort Abercrombie on Kodiak and the Prince Williams Sound. I think I just like water… actually, just the ocean, since at the last lake, (Lake McKinley on the Copper River) I met a leech the size of a large hamster. We aren’t on good terms.

The mountains are beautiful too. They offer those quintessential-Alaska photo opportunities Brandon is so good at catching. They’re still covered in huge amounts of snow… pretty impressive for June. I keep imagining them covered with all the 100ft of snow or so they get ever year. Ahhh! Definitely coming back here to ski! This area gets 5-7 METERS of water-equivalent precipitation per year.

High expectations for the following days: I’m still not satisfied with why the glaciers are blue, I am dying to eat more fish (I completely support Rose’s and Garver’s fishing addiction) and I am waiting to meet a bear.

P.S. I am moving to Kodiak. Think it’ll be a summer gig though since even the locals despise the winters. Please forward my mail. Thanks!

Sam-

So far, the McKinley Trail Cabin has been my favourite place so far. The forest where the cabin was (Chugach National Forest) was outstanding. It reminded me of the Fern Gully. Driving through the Chugach Mountains was incredible, the best scenery so far. Turning corners and seeing the snow covered jagged peaks was unreal. Hiking on Child’s Glacier and watching it calve was also a highlight.

Kelly –

So we’re on the ferry again and its time for some more highlights. Basta and I were the only brave ones and took a swim in McKinley Lake, near where we stayed, and while it was very cold, it was also very refreshing after not taking a shower for a couple days. My next highlight would have to be walking on Child’s Glacier with another glacier (Miles Glacier) in the background. It made for quite the view.

Sarah –

My highlights in Cordova have been some of the best on the trip so far. I liked hiking on Child’s Glacier and watching it calve at the same time. Having a roof and walls was quite the treat at McKinley Trail Cabin the last three days, as well as the cozy sleeping quarters. The hikes up to the Lucky Strike Gold Mine were a nice evening activity, but the interesting game of Pictionary last night might have taken the cake.

Jon –

Eating breakfast from a shopping cart in a parking lot! Discovering an abandoned gold mine! Hopping on a WWII bunker! Feeding the Cockburn! Falling hot dogs! Speeding toward a grizzly in a giant van! Government conspiracies about missile launchers! Spongebob birthday cake! Hikes that have no end point! Alaska! Yeah!

Brandon –

The landscape during this adventure has grown increasingly exotic and beautiful. Cordova is an unexpected surprise; moss covered forests, an actively calving glacier, and numerous wetlands of the Copper River. The cabin we have for shelter (thank you National Forest Service for building it and Professor Cockburn for reserving it) isn’t shabby either! I don’t see how this trip could possibly get better, but I eagerly await the expeditions that await us, and I realize how fortunate I am to get to share this experience with such a good natured, interesting, and knowledgeable group of students and professors.

Student reflections thus far and more pictures!

2007-06-24T22:34:00.000-05:00

June 24, 2007
We have just arrived in Cordova and after being disappointed by the lack of wireless on this past ferry (the sea otters and sea lions made up for it) the group has headed out to set up camp at the McKinley Trail cabin (some people will sleep inside tonight...somehow I don't think I am one of them) and I am sitting outside the public library to load our latest updates 'sharing' the library's wireless signal. We have had a bit of clouds and showers since getting back to the mainland from Kodiak, but the forecast is for better weather while we are at Cordova - we are putting all the rain gear to good use!!
Each student has composed a short entry as part of this blog, we hope to have more student entries as we continue on our trip. Feel free to post comments or questions. Below is a group shot on our way to the Harding Icefield Overlook, in the background is Exit Glacier.Student Profiles

Brandon - I am a rising junior from Chappaqua, NY and this is my first time in Alaska. As a Geology and Environmental Science major I hope to gain a first hand understanding of deformation caused by subducting plates and glaciation as well as insight into erosional and depositional processes that can record catastrophic events such as volcanic eruptions and tsunamis. Plus Alaska has some great surf.

Highlights from last two days

Accretionary complex exposure along the cliffs at Fort Abercrombie, Kodiak

Hiking along Exit Glacier in Kenai Fjords National Park and viewing wildlife along the hike

Behind Brandon is Exit Glacier a valley glacier part of the Kenai Fiords National Park

Jon – I am a rising junior with a double-major in Geology and Environmental Science. I am from Niskayuna New York and have lived in New York all my life.

Alaska; where else are Bald Eagle’s more common than squirrels, do fake birthday’s last forever and ferry’s have tighter security than an airport? My first time on a plane and camping have been grand, as well as viewing my first glacier, standing ten feet away from a young bear and digging giant holes in remote fields.

This is Jon en route to the lookout over Harding Icefield

Brittany - I’m a senior from Southern California majoring in mechanical engineering, hoping to take in a geology minor.

On Timing
Retrospectively, I didn't even consider the effect of eternal sunshine (or as in the saturated city of Seward, the prolonged drizzly skies). Now I see. Initially it was disturbing to find a typical “5-o’clock sun” telling such outrageous lies, but we have adapted. We quickly learned watching the sun is only confusing and the hands of the clocks are meaningless because there are so many more sunny hours to occupy. My life here is no longer run one day at a time, from sunup to sundown. An “Alaskan summer” is the smallest natural distinguishable division of time (days run together), so I measure life by feelings: duration until next shower, or escape from the rain, or to the next salmon.

Geology

Though complicated in some areas, it all makes sense. It is great to see the big picture! I did wish I knew more of the plants, now that's taken care of- I bought a guide this morning. Highlights:
the coastline, the lovely turbidites. Love you Mom, Dad, Jeff and Hayley!!

Behind Brittany is the tongue of Exit Glacier in Kenai Fiords National Park

Sam –

Next year will be my last hoorah at Union and Alaska is the beginning of that for me. I have been planning on coming to AK since I was in kindergarten. I study environmental science and what better place to learn about it first hand than the U.S.’s final frontier. I am quite interested in gaining some field experience and doing some serious camping (the first of my life). I was talked into *wink* staying behind after the trip to do a little thesis research with Prof. Cockburn, so my journey is just beginning.

Highlights from the trip:
Gary’s fresh Red Salmon and his, shall we say, strangely delivered stories
Being on my first glacier
Buying a hat off an Alaskan’s head

Sam is on a glacially scoured bedrock exposure in front of Exit Glacier

Sarah-

I’m a sophomore from Providence, RI. My major is still undeclared, but I am strongly considering geology (editorial comment we aren't letting her go home until she declares geo as her major - haha). This is my second trip to Alaska, and it is interesting to view the landscape from a geologic standpoint this time. I enjoyed the fieldwork on Kodiak Island because it was a hands-on experience, rather than purely observational. Though struggling to understand all the concepts we have been introduced to so far, I have found clarity and interest in learning about the 1964 earthquake and the tsunamis that followed. The most excitement was on our hike in Seward, with our increasingly better views of Exit Glacier to one side, while spotting black bears on the other. The brief bear encounter on the trail offered realization to the wildlife around us.

Saturday just before the 4 hour hike along side Exit Glacier

Karen –

I am a junior from Albany, NY and an English major. So far, my first experience in Alaska has been fabulous and absolutely beautiful. I am enjoying learning about a completely new topic in a hands on way. Not only have I found a new interest in geology but I am excited to see how this subject, geological hazards, is reflected in everyday life and society in Alaska. I am also thrilled about the wildlife I have seen so far!

Highlights from last two days:

Hiking up Exit Glacier and looking out over the landscape and glacier.

Karen is sitting on top of the accretionary complex on Kodiak Island overlooking Mill Bay at Ft Abercrombie.

Kelly -

I am a senior from Oswego, NY and I am a double major in Environmental Policy and Spanish. Alaska has always been a place I’ve wanted to visit and I’m really excited that I’m finally here. This is my first time camping ever (and what better place to do it in than Alaska!), but my trouble falling asleep hasn’t been because of the hard ground or a wet tent, but because it’s still light out here at midnight! For me, we have been learning some pretty complicated stuff about geology, but the geo majors have been helping the rest of us out so maybe by the end of the trip I will be able to understand completely what an accretionary complex is. So far though, my highlights of the trip have been listening to Gary Carver, our guide through Kodiak, talk about the politics of the Kodiak Launching Facility, walking on and off the trails at Fort Abercrombie, and seeing the glacier and black bear yesterday at Kenai Fjords National Park.

Kelly is standing in front of the ablation zone of Exit Glacier, just after a brief introduction and discussion of glacial dynamics and potential hazards

Rose –
Hello Family:

Thus far my Alaskan experience can be placed among the ranks of my greatest life’s experiences. It has been gratifying to have the opportunity to apply all that I have learned in the classroom to understanding the unique geology of Alaska. Furthermore, I am in fantastic company. Most of all I have to mention the great awe I am struck by being amidst natures majestic wonders. I have already seen puffins, seals, otters humpback whales, moose, mountain sheep, black bears, bald eagles, magpie, endless snow-peaked mountains, bubbling streams, fields of flowers (wild orchids and roses), glaciers, and lots of fish. Unfortunately I have only seen the fish, and have yet to catch one. Despite the fact that I can not yet be considered a critically acclaimed fisherman I sure as hell have had a lot of fun trying.

Thanks for making my travels possible… and I promise you’ll be getting a fish in the mail soon!

Rose is looking for whales in the bay off of Fort Abercrombie, Kodiak Island on Friday

Amanda -
Pretty fantastic trip thus far. The rain and drear make me feel more at home than I feel at school in New York. Being from the Northwest myself, Living on the Edge is applicable to the place I will eventually settle. The course material I am learning can easily be applied to my home area of Olympia, Olympic Peninsula and Cascade Range. For me the highlight of this trip will come when I return home and am able to recognize geologic features all on my home. (Dad, our hiking excursions are going to be brought to a whole new level. Mom, sorry for the boring dinner chats that will come.)
Paid an exorbitant amount of money in order to go fishing and have yet to see any returns. However, Garver, Rose and myself are optimistic as we ferry towards Cordova and the Copper River. Soon getting up at 5am will pay off, and not just in getting the first cup of coffee. The food is filling, company is great and the overall attitude is positive. Endless learning and exploring in the last frontier.

Amanda is on the beach below the town of Old Kenai on our way to Homer, looking towards the Cook Inlet, where we discussed Sangamon terraces visible up and down the coast

More Photos Kodiak and Exit Glacier (not in order ... sorry)

Overlooking Mill Point at Ft Abercrombie, Kodiak

Exit Glacier

Rose with Sam (really little) almost in the palm of her hand

Karen appreciates the local culinary delights!

The group after the Exit Glacier hike and a tour through the town of Seward

Almost finished the Harding Icefield Overlook Trail

Sarah and Kelly at Exit Glacier

Exit Glacier overlook

Early morning fisher-women, Amanda and RoseFirst up-close glacier sighting - Sarah, Kelly, Brittany

Kodiak and back

2007-06-22T21:13:00.000-05:00

We are now on the ferry heading back to Homer. We boarded around 5pm and should be into Homer by 7am tomorrow morning. We had an excellent introduction to the accretionary complex in Alaska. Local geologist Gary Carver, was our host for the last two days. He met us on Wednesday morning and took us to Middle Bay where we helped him with a research project investigating the extent of tsunami waves during the 1964 earthquake by excavating and mapping sedimentary deposits. Afterwards he provided a fabulous salmon dinner for the group. The next day we traveled to Narrow Cape and the Kodiak Launch Complex where we investigated a number of active faults. This morning we woke up to the first clouds and cool weather of the trip. We broke camp and headed to Fort Abercrombie, a military installment built during WWII to protect Kodiak City and essentially mainland Alaska in case of attack from Japanese forces. The Japanese never attacked Kodiak and now Fort Abercrombie is a historic site and fantastic view point for spotting marine wildlife. The average Alaskan visitor might be satisfied with a few whales and some puffins - but for a bunch of Geologist we needed more. We made our way from the peaks to the tidal pools below where there were fantastic examples of folds (synclines) that are typical of the accretionary complex.

A few photos from Kodiak
(if you click on a photo , you can see the larger image)

Arriving into Kodiak, Wednesday morning

Tsunami Project View - Middle Bay - the group to the bottom left is completing our transect observations and measurements

A look over the salt marshes where tsunami deposits were studied

Studying the vegetation gradient through the tidal marshes in Middle Bay

Getting dinner ready!

Gary explains active faults on Narrow Cape adjacent to the Kodiak Launch Complex

Sketching the Holocene tephra stratigraphy at west of Narrow Cape

After a day of active fault measurements we took a break for some fishing in Pasagshak Creek

Fishing in the creek near our camp - Bushkin Creek, 11pm

Studying deformation in the Kodiak Formation (part of the accretionary complex) in Mill Bay

Standing on a bunker at Fort Abercrombie

Day 1 -Anchorage to Homer June 19, 2007

2007-06-20T00:56:00.000-05:00

Crystal clear, perfect weather - must be all your positive thoughts!

We are sitting on the Tustemena in the Homer harbour, on the southern tip of the Kenai Peninsula. We had an amazing day - the weather couldn't be better. Check out our list of daily highlights to the right, and look at this link for photos from the day. But here are just a few before you go to the album - which is still a work in progress - mostly just need to find a faster connection.

June 18, 10:00pm, Ship Creek, downtown Anchorage. People were shoulder to shoulder in the river fishing for the King Salmon that just started to run last week. This was one about 50lbs, 3ft long - fairly standard according to the locals!

Once we got ourselves checked out of the Spenard Motel, we headed to Earthquake Park, on the western edge of Anchorage, along the Knik Arm. This is a large landslide that moved during the 1964 earthquake. In addition to observing slump rotation blocks we also had our first major wildlife sighting - the state bird - the very healthy and large mosquito!! Sam won the first points of the day by having his bug spray on hand.

So there is a bit of a problem with the connection and loading photos. Everyone is having a great time (most are still sleeping) but we are ready for a great day on Kodiak. A colleague, Gary Carver is hosting us for the next two days and this includes a huge salmon bake!

This week's weather

2007-06-17T13:31:00.000-05:00

I imagine everybody is getting ready for tomorrow's flight. Here is a quick run down of the weather for the next week.
Anchorage - Cloudy, thunderstorms, highs 60-70s, lows 50s
Kodiak - 50-60s highs, 40-50s lows, scattered showers
Kenai Peninsula - Seward - highs near 60, lows 40-50s, chance of showers

Be sure to keep you rain coat handy and some warm pajamas.

See you in Anchorage tomorrow!!

One Week Today!

2007-06-14T21:12:00.000-05:00

Well I am excited and I can't help but be pumped that in a week we will have spent 3 days on Kodiak Island and be heading back to Homer via 'night movement' on Tustumena, part of the Alaska Marine Highway system.

What will we see on Kodiak Island? Well here are a couple of photos of some of the things we will be exploring. Try a Google image search on your own to see what you turn up. And once we get here ourselves, we will of course post our very own pics of the trip in action. A couple reminders, be sure to confirm your flight departure and arrival times, be sure to bring the handout that had phone numbers and arrival times on it and check out the schedule below for more day-to-day details.
See you in Anchorage!

Kodiak Launch Complex

A view of one of the many bays on Kodiak Island

Do not be alarmed - this guy was in south south -south-western Kodiak Island. We won't see any of this up close...the salmon won't be running.

The countdown begins!

2007-06-12T12:28:00.000-05:00

We are less than a week away from our arrival in Anchorage. Students have been working on and submitting their pre-trip projects. These are one-page fact sheets on different aspects of Alaska. As we visit the relevant places students will have a few minutes to tout their expertise and teach the group about their topic. The topics ranged from energy and transport in Alaska to the history of parks and people.

Below is an excerpt from of the fact sheet put together on Lituya Bay the site of the largest tsunami, by Brittany Adam.

"July 10, 1958

An 7.9 magnitude earthquake along the Fairweather fault shook roughly 40 million cubic yards of dirt and glacier off the Eastern wall of the Gilbert Inlet creating a monstrous wave 524m (1,742ft) tall.

This height was measured fom the highwater mark; the wave stripped trees and soil from the opposite headland. "

Living on the Edge - Alaska 2007

2007-04-11T16:56:00.000-05:00

Here is the current schedule for June and July
Clicking on the schedule below will open it in a second window