Monday, October 1, 2007

Postings from the 2007 Living on the Edge Field Course in Alaska


Welcome to the 2007 LOTE Alaska Blog site. Below you will find the entries/stories (in reverse order) from the 2007 field course in Alaska. We met on June 18 (early June 19) in Anchorage Alaska and proceeded to the southern tip of the Kenai Peninsula where we boarded the Tustemena and promptly went to sleep (we got on the ferry at midnight!). We arrived rested and excited for the 3 days of work on Kodiak Island - what a beginning!

Have a look at the stories and photos from our trip. Some of the parents followed along and posted comments as well as we went.

If you have any questions about LOTE: ALASKA 2008 please contact John Garver or Jaclyn Cockburn at the Union College Geology Department or via email:
gaverj at union.com or cockburj at union.com

Monday, July 9, 2007

There and back again!

Well it seems like years ago we gathered in Anchorage on a sunny day/evening/night ... it was hard to tell and despite some initial challenges like delayed or canceled flights and one piece of missing luggage we were out of Anchorage onto the first part of this amazing trip! And three weeks later, we are back!
I can't believe it has been three weeks - it has flown by and yet those first few days seem so long ago. The geology, cultural and social experiences have been something else. Many of us have learned about our own personal thresholds, for example I don't need to wash oatmeal, spaghetti sauce or sandwich crumbs out of my eating dish - but I can't handle scrambled eggs mixing with peanut butter. And others have learned that science goes on, even in the rain, fog, wind, beating sun or with challenged music selection. I think each of us has grown from this trip and will leave Alaska knowing a little more about ourselves. On top of that I can say that each of us is a better Geologist and field scientist for this experience. It is impossible to replace this hands-on, seeing is believing type learning, it is a fundamentally unique opportunity and each of us is hugely privileged to have been a part of it. I look back on all that we accomplished over the last three weeks and smile with awe and pride. We conquered subduction zones, mosquito strongholds, disappearing strata, bears, volcanic arcs and their remnants, moose, leaking tents, strike-slip faults, antecedent streams, incision that keeps up with mountain uplift, everyone's favourite - the accretionary complex, upcoming thesis topic discussions and a couple of memorable birthdays (I think the count was 1 for Brandon and maybe 10 or so for Jon). We even handled some deflating moments - like the missing luggage, dented vans, tires embedded with nails, and the unfair Fairbanks. This group and this course is one of my most memorable experiences as a scientist, and each individual on this trip has contributed to this outstanding experience for me. In a very nerdy way (paraphrasing from a student's comment), I am passionate about Geology and learning, and truly hope that some of that has been passed on to the others. I wish each person success in their future endeavours (the trip home, sorting out courses, majors, thesis topics and beyond) and hope that you look back on Living on the Edge 2007 as a memorable (maybe even top 5) experience.
jc

A couple of photos from the last day in Denali - July 7, 2007

They don't call this class Living on the Edge for nothing! We endured the 7 hour round trip shuttle bus trek to increase our chance of seeing Mt McKinley - it is in the background of this photo... The shuttle buses are used by hikers and wildlife watchers to get further into the park, we took the second longest bus run to Fish Creek, Mile Post 64. When we got there, there was a grizzly bear just settling into a nap about 1200 yards from the bus stop! We gave him a wide berth to hike to the top of this peak - literally into the clouds! On the bus ride back to our campground, another man took a photo of Brandon's digital camera screen that was showing a great shot of our napping griz. We saw 3 griz this day, the sleeping bear, and then two others that were foraging on the sides of hills. We saw a few caribou and sheep from a distance and some feisty ground squirrels and everyone's favourite tundra animal - the snowshoe hare - I think the snowshoes slow them down in summer - at least slower than our bus.

"There are strange things done in the midnight sun"
On our last night of camping in Denali we were visited by Amanda's parents and their friends who were on vacation in Alaska and just happened to by about 3 miles down the road from our campsite. We treated Laura, Steven, Joanne and Ken to smores and stories. They had been following our journey on the blog and were happy to get to meet up with us, as were we. The students had just finished writing the final exam for the course when the parent inspection began. Thankfully they didn't get beyond the campfire, I am sure everyone made their beds, but I am not sure that all the socks had been put away. Amanda's Dad is holding up the Living on the Edge Alaska guidebook which has a shiny cover and is reflecting kind of funny in the picture - which was taken just after midnight.

Saturday, July 7, 2007

As the end nears

We’re in the Central Alaska Range and the mountains are brilliant as the low evening sunlight illuminates the snowy peaks. We had a wonderful day in the Savage River topped off by seeing a number of caribou on the river gravels. This trip has been amazing and I think it is safe to say it has been an incredibly rewarding and profound experience for all. We’ve seen faults, tsunami sand layers, landslides and mudflows, flood deposits, alluvial fans, galloping glaciers, volcanic ash, burst lakes, calving glaciers, down-dropped swamps, uplifted beaches, fault-split trees, and forty year old barnacles stuck to rocks in the woods. The Earth reveals secrets of dramatic events in subtle ways and leaves fascinating clues of dramatic events and I think that all have a new appreciation of how to think about natural hazards. While the science has been wonderful, working with this team has been incredibly rewarding. Our gathering in Anchorage three weeks ago seems like it was ages ago, but since that time we transformed from eleven individuals, to one team. The group bond is the strongest I’ve seen on a trip like this. This bond comes from shared experiences that are difficult to relate; some scary, some breathtaking, some routine. We’ve pitched tents, cooked dinners, chased moose out of camp, hiked the arctic tundra, crossed rivers, berthed in an ocean-going ferry, fixed flat tires, fished for salmon, told stories, negotiated bears in the trail, caught grayling, met Alaskans, sweated, shivered, started camp fires, discussed politics, roasted marshmallows, gotten wet and dried out. It is hard to put to words how all this interconnected activity builds a common bond and a life changing experience, but it has. It will be sad to break camp Sunday morning. Sad because it will be our last camp in the Alaskan bush and so it will mark the end of our adventure. Before we know it we’ll be back at Union, and campus life will seem just a little foreign. A little different than when we left. And that’s good, because we all have a new perspective that has helped focus on what’s important.

JG


First Day in Denali

So we made it to Denali yesterday afternoon and have just finished an amazing day. As some of the comments have hinted Fairbanks wasn't as fair as its name might imply, but getting to the awesome setting of Denali National Park has improved all our spirits. As some of you will know July 5th was Brandon's birthday and in true LOTE tradition we celebrated with a birthday cake at breakfast in a parking lot - this time it was the Museum of the North's parking lot though. Below are more photos from today. Tomorrow is a long trek into the center of Denali National Park and then the final exam for the course.


Happy Birthday Brandon!

A stop on Savage River Trail


Kelly at an overlook along the Savage Creek Trail this afternoon


Karen at another overlook along the Savage Creek Trail - yes those are some serious clouds in the background

Sarah this afternoon on the hike


Rose and Amanda along the Savage Creek Trail

The group on the Savage Creek Trail

A personal fave-jc


This morning we were treated to a lecture and mini field trip led by Park Geologist Phil Brease

Sam not wearing sunglasses

Jon above the Nenana River this morning on one of Phil Brease's field stops

Taking notes at a windy point over the Nenana River this morning

Wednesday, July 4, 2007

Valdez to Fairbanks the Full Story

Happy 4th of July! We are in Fairbanks for the day before we turn south and make our way back to Anchorage with a 4-day, 3-night stop-over in Denali National Park, the Serengeti of the north! We have had a fabulous trip from Valdez to Fairbanks and the there are many highlights. Here is a quick overview of our schedule from the last 7 days, followed by the story in the students' words and of course some fabulous shots!

From Valdez we went north through Keystone Canyon and Thompson Pass stopping at Bridal Veil Falls and Worthington Glacier. It was a beautiful evening drive. We made it to Squirrel Creek just before the rain. The next day we broke camp and continued north stopping along the way to look at some exposures of Glacial Lake Ahtna sediments, the Copper River, awesome vistas of the Wrangell/St. Elias Volcanoes and stopping for the next two nights at Grizzly Lake Campground. From here we staged our day-long hike up the Skookum Volcano Trail at the end of the Nabesna Road, that night at camp we had hilarious game of charades - don't worry I think Hollywood is safe. The next day made our way to Tangle Lakes via a circuitous route that included a discussion with a Mentasta Lake resident who experienced the 2002 Denali Fault Earthquake first-hand. This was a great precursor to this second segment of our trip - The Denali Fault System. After some rain at Tangle Lakes we spent the day hiking around the Landmark Gap Lake Trail looking at post-glacial landscapes and some permafrost landscape features. From Tangle Lakes we moved north again over the Denali Fault to Donnelly Creek Campground. We spent time looking at the impact of the 2002 fault rupture on the pipeline and looking at evidence of earlier ruptures. Yesterday we spent the day on Castner Glacier exploring stagnant glacial ice terrain and discussing the potential hazards associated with surging glaciers. Today we got an early start - maybe due to a little help from a moose visiting at 4am! and spent the day in Fairbanks. Here are some stories from the students. Thanks again for all your comments! We are glad you like the blog. If you are unsure about posting comments there are some instructions posted just before this update.

Student Updates


Brittany-
Hi Mom, Dad, Jeff and Hayley!
We’re suddenly having hot weather are blue skies with are great! Yesterday we hiked Castner Glacier. Ice pieces had been left behind by the glacier as it retreated which made a very muddy and hilly hike- really fun. We also ran across a few ice caves. Heading off to Denali Park tomorrow. Happy fourth of July!



Rosalba -
Since the last update the fishing situation has changed little. And by little, I mean that I have caught my first fish, of ~8inches in length (grayling)… I’m very pleased. Aside from this triumph I have to mention another of even greater importance, the Trans-Alaskan Pipeline. After seeing such a structure in person I can truly say that it is a triumph of American engineering. It weaved underground, snaked above ground, and seemingly floated above waterways (all 1 million barrels/day) in other areas. Knowing what grief our country’s dependency on oil has caused the average American citizen and what a monstrous disruption of nature the pipeline is, I hesitated to appreciate it, but it was overwhelmingly impressive. I suppose I will hold reservations on forming an opinion about it just yet. On a more natural note I continue to be awed by Alaska’s beauty. Our last two day hikes up to Castner Glacier and around the rolling, tundra-vegetated hills surrounding Landmark Gap Lake have given me an opportunity to apply all that I have learned in the last 3 years to understanding the beautiful land. It has been a rewarding experience to look at an outcrop and figure out what it means before the teachers even explain it. With that said… It is also exciting to know how much more I have to learn.


Amanda –
Hey mom and dad! Sounds like the cruise is a blast. Mom, you’re right no one makes my bed in the morning. However, all I have to do is stuff my sleeping bag into a sac. We are now back in civilization for a night if you get a chance to call. Civilization also means showers, fresh vegetables and clean laundry! Our trip feels like its just getting going and we are really almost at the end. Reviewing today in the big white van, the realization hit of how much we have learned in these past few weeks. This outdoor classroom thing is amazing. Hello to the rest of my family. Thanks for writing blog notes, it is certainly one of the highlights of our week up here knowing that everyone at home is following along with our adventures. Love you all.

Jon
Clean! Showers and laundry after days camping out! We’ve watched Waterworld (great movie), searched for the elusive mud volcano and met Elton, an extra-friendly camp host who shared shelter in our van with us when the rain came. Hiking on the volcano was a blast and viewing the ice caves was pretty cool. We have also been seeing the pipeline on our trip the last few days, which did not match the impression I had in my head. I thought it would have a massive diameter and would be elevated high enough where people would not be able to touch it, but I was wrong on both accounts. The weather here in
Fairbanks is very warm and sunny (contrary to what I hear from peeps in New York), but there won’t be any fireworks! The day should still be fun – We’ve already experienced the North Pole and had our first ‘real’ lunch for a while and are soon to explore the city!

Sam-

Lots of time since the last update, so hopefully I won’t forget anything major. One highlight has been getting stuck in “quickmud” near Child’s Glacier and Jackie getting stuck another time (and Jon video taping it). Yesterday we went on a great hike up Castner Glacier and we got to look at some pretty sweet stagnant ice deposits under sunny skies. We even got to demonstrate mass wasting by heaving rocks down the ice face. Some non-geo highlights include the card game politely known as “President”. The weather has been fabulous (little rain, but I would probably say the same with lots of rain) and sleeping while it is light out keeps getting easier. Its amazing to me that the pipeline can cross over the Denali fault and not spill a drop when it is displaced 18 feet, like it was in 2002. The foresight of the scientists and the willingness of the planners made this hazard much more manageable.

Sarah-

I am updating from the outside of a laundromat in the lovely city of Fairbanks, after taking about 10 minutes to figure out how to use the machines. I am enjoying being spoiled by the 90-degree weather after a few nights of rain at Tangle Lakes. Highlights from the last few days have been hanging out with Eldon, pesto and sausage dinner, and yesterday’s hike followed by the 12:30 sunset down by the river.

Kelly – We arrived in Fairbanks today which means time to shower and find the nearest laundromat. My clothes were definitely ready for a wash after the fabric softener debacle (as we now like to call it) in Valdez. As for highlights, the hike to the ice caves yesterday was one of the best sights I’ve seen yet on the trip. Who knew that throwing rocks into a melting glacier could be so entertaining? Surprisingly, seeing the Alaska Pipeline has been another highlight for me. While I thought I might just see it as an eye sore on the otherwise beautiful landscape, seeing the way the pipeline was engineered in order to be prepared for hazards like the earthquake in 2002 was pretty amazing. Based on the work of geologists, engineers have placed the pipeline on Teflon slides in areas where it crosses fault lines, like the Denali fault, to allow for the pipeline to move in case of an earthquake. It’s cool to see that after the 2002 earthquake all these precautions really did pay off.

Karen – Today we are in Fairbanks which is a cute little city. Since our last update we have traveled a lot and seen some great things. Some of my highlights were hiking along Skookum trail, seeing the salmon wheels, the waterfall and so many rainbows. Yesterday we saw some amazing ice caves. I have really liked the past couple of campgrounds we stayed at and playing games like pictionary and cards with the group. I am psyched that it is warm and sunny today! Even though we have had some rain, I always enjoy a good thunderstorm and the chance to wear my raingear. I am also looking forward to Denali!

BrandonFairbanks, like Valdez has been an unexpected and much welcomed chance to shower, launder, and “recharge the batteries”. The departure from Valdez into the volcanic arc ushered in some new and different types of terrain and geological opportunities like sorting through sediments deposited by lahars and hiking into the Skookum Volcano. I have especially enjoyed the extra-curricular aspects of our journey such as group charades, pictionary, and countless intellectual discussions. Even through the few days of rain we have experienced thus far, spectacular rainbows (and even double rainbows, which I never knew existed) have acted as the silver lining to our picture perfect cloud.

How to post a comment

Hi All - Here is a quick lesson on how to post a comment, we know you want to post them - we love to read them!

At the end of each update or blog there is a line of small text that looks like this
"Posted by _________________________________ at 12:05 AM 6 comments"
All you need to do to post a comment or read other comments is click on the word comments. It will open a new page and there you will see an option on the top right to write in your comments and you can read the other comments on the left.

The comments have been awesome, keep them coming!
jc

Sunday, July 1, 2007

Update from Tangle Lakes - Denali Highway

June 30, 2007
We made it to the Denali Highway and we are about 20 miles down the road at Tangle Lakes Campground, well that's where some of stuff is - really we are holed up at Tangle Lakes Inn trying to stay dry and they have free wireless. We have had some amazing weather and today our weather luck seems to be a little short. After Valdez, our first night was spent on Squirrel Creek and the last two nights have been at Grizzly Lake on the Tok Cutoff just southwest of the Nabesna Rd. When we get a chance we will update with some photos, don't worry everyone is well and happy, we just haven't had a chance to download all our photos from our last few days. WE LOVE the comments!


Here is a group shot from the Skookum Volcano Trail on Friday


Some locals on the Copper River let us check out their fish wheel, Rose got a closer look


Before driving further north along the Richardson Highway, we spent some time at an exposure of Glacial Lake Ahtna sediments, Kelly is taking some measurements


We stopped at Copper Center on our way to Grizzly Lake, this is the oldest non-native town in Alaska, they have great icec cream and coffee!


We had a bit of rain in the evening on Thursday, but with rain came some fantastic rainbows, we counted at least 8


This is one of the views of the Wrangells above the Copper River, Mt Drum is hiding in the clouds on the right